Camp Internet's Global Gardening Studies are open to all Camp Expedition Teams. RAIN's Youth Technology Corps members are Expedition Team Leaders for Communities taking part.

Budding and Grafting

Budding is the most common way of propagating fruit trees. It is done by inserting a single bud under the bark of a branch so that the bud and the stock unite. Usually done in the spring. There are two types of grafting, bark graft and cleft graft. Bark graft is used to change the variety of the tree or a main branch. The cleft graft is the most popular method. It is used on any trunk or branch that is 2-4 inches in diameter.

Fire Resistant Landscaping

Living in our beautiful hills requires a certain responsibility when it comes to landscaping. Divide the area around your home into sections, near area, mid area, and far area. The near area is the first 30 feet around the house or up to the property line for smaller lots. You can do traditional landscaping with trees, shrubs, groundcovers, and lawn. Plants here need to be the most fire resistant. Never plant pines, junipers, eucalyptus globulus, or greasewood. They are extremely flammable, high in oils, resins, or even turpentine. Paper thin leaves and twiggy branches are a no no. The mid area is the next 30 to 70 feet away from the house. This area should have low plants, no taller than 18 inches, to act as a fuel break. You could use fire resistant groundcovers here. The far area includes fringe areas adjacent to wildlands or open space. Keep this area well maintained to eliminate a buildup of dry brush and other litter. Here are just a few of the fire resistant and drought tolerant plants: Trees - Western Redbud, Coast Live Oak, Chinese Pistache. Shrubs - Cotoneaster, Escallonia, Oleander, Rock Rose. Groundcovers - Gazania, Sea Pink, Creeping Rosemary, Wild Strawberry, Ice Plant and other succulents (frost damage can occur). Perennials - Yarrow, Dusty Miller, Lavender, Wallflower, Calif. Poppy. Vines - Jasmine, Lady Bank's Rose, Cape Honeysuckle. This has barely scratched the surface of this subject.

Fruit Tree, Varieties For Our Area

Bareroot time is upon us and our thoughts turn to visions of ripe luscious fruit, but which ones do best here. Apples: Granny Smith, Mutsu, Fuji, Empire, Red or Golden Delicious. Apricots: Blenheim (Royal), Moorpark, Sundrop. Cherries: Bing, Black Tartarian, Lapins, Rainier, Stella. Figs: Black Mission, Excel, Green Ischia. Grapes: Black Monukka, Flame Seedless, Perlette, Tokay, Concord. Peaches: Freestone - Crawford, Early Elberta, J.H. Hale, O'Henry, Midpride. Clingstone - Everts Cling, Fortuna, Indian Cling. Nectarines: Double Delight, Juneglo, Redgold, Stark Sunglo. Pears: Anjou, Bartlett, Comice. Plums: Green Gage, French Prune, Imperial Prune, Santa Rosa, Satsuma. This is just a sampling from our list. Call for the Hotline for handout of complete list and sources.

Fruit Trees, Pruning

Prune fruit trees in January and February. Apricots may be pruned July and August, before winter rains begin, if there is incidence of Eutypa (limb dieback). After pruning apply dormant oil spray for overwintering scale, mealy bugs, whiteflies, and mites. This should be completed by the end of February and before buds open. For info on pruning the various types of fruit trees ask about the pamphlet #21171 Pruning Fruit and Nut Trees for $3.00 and the free Fruit Tree Care Calendar.

Turf, Moss & Algae Control

This is quite common in California lawns and can indirectly impair the lawn growth. Both moss and algae form a barrier against water and air movement into the soil. It usually occurs in neglected lawns. The reason for its development can have many factors, poor drainage, too much water or rain, soil compaction, restriction of air movement, thick thatch layer, low soil fertility (moss), acidic soil, heavy shade (moss), and High soil fertility (algae). By eliminating the cause or causes while keeping the grass growing vigorously should be your first way of trying to control this problem. For moss, you would fertilize (algae needs a reduction in fertility). Change pH to a range of 6 to 7 if acidic. Reduce water irrigation. Mother nature could have something to say about that. Improve soil drainage by recontouring or installing drain tiles. Remove excess thatch. Selectively pruning trees and shrubs can reduce shade if moss is the problem. Reduce compaction by aerating the soil. Chemical treatments will only solve the problem temporarily. When you have control, be sure to rake the dead material and remove. Bare spots should be reseeded